Hot springs in the middle of Soda Bay! Look closely at the base of the red rock to the right, and you can see the springs bubbling up.
Clear Lake, in Lake County, California, has been on my to-paddle list since I discovered it on a map and learned about its fascinating history a few months ago. More than a few friends responded with apathy at visiting the lake, alluding to its reputation for motorboats, rednecks, and water quality issues. While I certainly love a remote, undeveloped lake, I also enjoy exploring other flavors of paddling! Alice agreed to join the long day trip. We left the Bay at noon, drove about 2.5 hours (after accidentally "meeting up" at two different park-n-rides in Novato), and put our boats on the water around 4pm. Within 5 minutes we jumped out of our boats to refresh, ignoring the algal bloom that filled the water around us.
| We launched from Lakeside Park, which is on the southwest side of the lake. It's a free county park where we could leave our cars after sunset (unlike Clear Lake State Park). There were some big swarms of "Clear Lake Gnats," which apparently hatch during this season and used to be a major pest. According to Wikipedia, the swarms were so thick before the 1940s that people would have to stop every 1/4 mile to wipe gnats off the windshields of cars (this is surprising since cars probably didn't go as fast as they do today). Control efforts involving DDD during the 1940's and '50s killed many birds (Western grebe) on the lake. Today the gnats are kept under control by two fish species that provide competition for food (zooplankton). [How do gnats eat plankton? Crazy] |  Stopped for chocolate milk on the way to Clear Lake. Photo by Alice Miller. |
Leaving the dock at Lakeside Park.
Apparently Clear Lake is one of the oldest lakes in North America. It used to be much larger and flow into to the Russian River, but volcanic eruptions and landslides severed that connection. Today the main outlet is Cache Creek, which is now controlled by Cache Creek Dam. A few dormant volcanos surround the lake, making for an interesting skyline. The Sulfur Bank Mine, once one of the largest mercury producers in world, is located on the east side of the lake. It is now a Superfund site (and historical landmark), and has led to very high mercury contamination in Clear Lake.
 |  A quick stop at the Country Store for a failed beer run. |
We paddled around Clear Lake State Park and into Soda Bay, where we encountered an unusual island (see photo above) of bright orange rocks. As we approached, the area between the rocks seemed to be boiling. There are a number of vent holes around Soda Bay, with the deepest (~100 feet) acting as nurseries for juvenile catfish. In the early 1900's these baths were built up and connected to shore by a walkway (destroyed by a fire in 1940).
We crossed over from Soda Bay to a narrow peninsula. The wind and waves picked up significantly in this exposed stretch, and made for some unexpected excitement. On the way back we were craving some cold beers and pulled over at the Country Store, which was in a shadier part of the bay. By the time we entered the air conditioned store we were quite chilly (not having brought extra layers) and no longer craved beers, so we munched some almonds and went on our way. :)
We crossed over from Soda Bay to a narrow peninsula. The wind and waves picked up significantly in this exposed stretch, and made for some unexpected excitement. On the way back we were craving some cold beers and pulled over at the Country Store, which was in a shadier part of the bay. By the time we entered the air conditioned store we were quite chilly (not having brought extra layers) and no longer craved beers, so we munched some almonds and went on our way. :)
Alice paddling into the sunset
| In summary, Clear Lake is a lake with many troubles, but also many unique and interesting stories and sights. I've been craving a long paddle on a big lake, and Clear Lake was perfect for that. We did not encounter the droves of motor boats that were predicted, and we almost felt alone on the lake - a strange feeling for California. I can't speak for Alice, but I'd go back to do some more exploring on the south end! Our return was perfectly timed with the sunset. We had an audience of fishermen as we loaded up our boats. On the drive home we crossed the mountains westward to HWY 101, nearly hitting Bambi on the way (coincidentally during a conversation about movies with animal name titles). Date: Saturday June 1st, 2013 Time: ~4.5 hours Distance ~ 13.5 miles |  Mandatory sunset over the mountains picture. |
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