At 8:20am on Easter morning, Alice and I simultaneously pulled into our favorite Park-N-Ride in San Rafael. We have a history of perfect timing - we're both 10 minutes early. We loaded White Lightning onto my car (next to Big Purple) and headed up the 101. Estero Americano flows into Bodega Bay, roughly 1.5 hrs north of the Bay Area. The launch site is at the end of a dirt road that spurs off the intersection of Marsh Road and Valley Ford Franklin School Road. Another kayaker arrived shortly after us, and spent 20 minutes urging Alice and I to join a kayak racing club in Berkeley.
Parked at the launch site off Marsh Road
Estero Americano is fed by Americano Creek and forms the boundary of Marin County with Sonoma County. The Estero is not always deep enough to paddle - water levels can fluctuate significantly depending on flows in Americano Creek (rainfall), tide levels, and whether or not the lagoon is open or closed at the ocean. When the lagoon is open, water levels are generally much lower because water flows freely out into the ocean instead of piling up behind a closed beach. We weren't sure whether the lagoon was open, but I've been eyeing this paddle for over a year, so we took a risk and went for it! There is virtually no access by car or visibility from roads during the 6 miles trip between the launch site and the Pacific Ocean - the best way to see it is by kayak/canoe.
The trip begins as little more than a narrow muddy channel winding between flat dairy pastures. Thanks to some recent rain, the fields and hillsides were bright green. Curious cows approached the channel banks to grunt and say hello.
The trip begins as little more than a narrow muddy channel winding between flat dairy pastures. Thanks to some recent rain, the fields and hillsides were bright green. Curious cows approached the channel banks to grunt and say hello.
Nena meets cows. Photo by Alice Miller.
Alice checking out Whale's Tail rock
The channel widened after 2 miles amongst the cows. Adjacent hillsides rose, and salt marshes and mudflats replaced the pastures. The last couple miles were by far the most majestic, with steep green hillsides flanking the wide Estero. Alice and I both felt that we had been transported to New Zealand or another more dramatic landscape. A strong wind picked up along this stretch, increasing our sense of isolation as we paddled independently (conversation during windy kayaking quickly leads to sore throats).
And suddenly you're in New Zealand. Photo by Alice Miller.
We rounded the last bend around noon and were welcomed by our own private sandy beach. The mouth of the Estero was open, and the lagoon was still draining (much to our surprise - low tide was at 10am). We dragged our boats up onto the beach and went exploring. Alice walked to the south end of the beach, while I checked out the mouth and basked in the sun.
Exploring the mouth of Estero Americano. Photo by Alice Miller.
The beach at Estero Americano, facing south
 | The return trip passed quickly, and we met a cow carcass along the way. Alice was slightly traumatized, as Easter is supposed to be about rebirth rather than death. I guess that's what happens when you choose kayaking over Easter mass. Date: April 20, 2014 Duration: ~5 hrs (including 1 hour of sunning on the beach) Distance: 11 miles |
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