First glimpses of the Balearic Islands in Port de Pollença, Mallorca

Launching off La Gola Beach in Port de Pollença, in the morning when the water was still calm.

I start a new job tomorrow! So I've committed myself to finishing this blog post, since new jobs have a way of taking over. The past five weeks have been a whirlwind between jobs. I went to the US for almost two weeks, moved into my new apartment in Rotterdam (more on that later!), and spent a week adventuring in Mallorca! A good friend of mine, Inma, moved to Mallorca a couple months ago. With her apartment in Palma as a convenient home base, I hopped on buses every morning to explore different sides of the island... Read on to hear about this kayaking oasis! 

A small engineered inlet to the Sea from some wetlands behind Port de Pollença, on La Gola Beach.

Port de Pollença, a small city on the northeast corner of Mallorca, is named after an ancient Roman settlement, the remains of which I visited a bit further south, near Alcúdia. I only kayaked for one day, mostly because there was only one sea kayak outfitter open in March. I contacted Kayak Mallorca, based in Port de Pollença, back in January when I was first brainstorming the trip. They responded after a few days, saying they'd be happy to rent a boat, though their beachside location only opens in the beginning of April. They told me to contact them when I arrived to sort out the details. 

I contacted them the day I landed, but three days later I still had not received a response. After multiple emails, SMSs, and Facebook messages, I made a last ditch effort to get their attention by posting a disappointed review on their Facebook page. Within hours, I received an apologetic message saying they just discovered their email server had been down.  They would be there at 10am the next day with a sea kayak for me. Social media reviews and persistence for the win!

Looking back at Port de Pollença and the launch site. The piles of sand are from the beach widening that happens almost every year to maintain an otherwise eroding coast.

Kayak Mallorca is owned by Miguel, who doesn't speak much English. His colleague, Oscar, was in charge of communication. I arrived at La Gola Beach about 20 minutes early and watched as their beach hut was delivered in pieces by a big truck. After they had unloaded, Oscar showed me over to their boat trailer, where I picked out a kayak and was provided with a paddle and PFD. I think he may have forgotten about the rental, however, because he only had one life jacket (size L/XL) and no paddle float/bilge pump. I felt a bit nervous heading out on a paddle by myself (which would pass steep, exposed cliffs) without self-rescue equipment. It was probably stupid, but it was a beautiful calm day, and I know how to do a solid roll/re-entry and roll/rodeo re-entry, so I figured I could bilge out my cockpit using a water bottle if necessary. This was my only chance to kayak in Mallorca! 

They only charged me 30 euros for the full-day composite sea kayak rental, a 10 euro discount for the communication issues (much appreciated!). I paddled an enjoyable Wilderness Systems Tempest (165/170 Pro?). 

Enjoying the mountainous skyline around the Bay of Pollença.

Port de Pollença Military Base. The sign (which you can't read) says to stay away!

I launched into the calm waters of the Bay of Pollença, and headed north, hugging the coast. I made it past the harbor and touristy beaches of Port de Pollença before I heard what I later realized were my first gunshots since moving to Europe. At first I was unsure, but by the 3rd round I was certain (thanks, Oakland). I kept paddling, coincidentally towards the sound, and soon came upon an aircraft hangar and a number of stern signs telling me to stay away. You wouldn't know by looking at Google Maps (no labels!), but there's a small military base on the north end of the bay. Later in the day I watched two small military planes practicing fire fighting skills - scooping up and dropping huge volumes of water over the bay (see photo).  

Small plane dropping water onto the bay, practicing fire-fighting. Luckily they never dropped their cargo over my boat!

My attention was then drawn to La Fortaleza, built in 1628 to defend against pirates, sitting atop the Pollença Peninsula. It was recently renovated by a British owner, and is a huge luxury complex of houses, gardens, and pools. I don't have a good photo, because it is a hidden in the trees, but I did approach an entrance to an underground tunnel (see photo). 

Possibly an underground tunnel (or maybe just a boathouse) to La Fortaleza - a giant estate on top of Pollesa peninsula.

This stretch of coast, along the west/sheltered side of the peninsula, was my favorite. The water was calm and crystal clear, making it easy to observe the sea urchins, sea cucumbers, fish, and more. 

Crystal clear water and white sands

Doing some tide pooling in the calm area behind the Pollensa peninsula. Urchins and sea cucumbers and fish and more!

Some sort of white moss-looking stuff growing off the cliffs

Sea urchins :)

The other side of the peninsula was another world. As I rounded the corner, I encountered a breeze, some chop, and steep cliffs. A couple hundred meters further, I passed a small quarry, where stone was mined to build the Fortaleza three centuries ago. 

The small quarry on the east side of the Pollensa peninsula that was used to build La Fortaleza.

(Empty-looking) mansions like these are a common sight in Mallorca...

I continued to hug the cliffs, approaching Playa de Formentor. This coast was dotted by huge (mostly empty, save a few gardeners) mansions. I don't have too much to say except that there was some tourism infrastructure, and a few early-season tourists were lying on the beaches. The only photos I have are selfies... 

Standard awkward selfie.

North end of Playa de Formentor

I reached the end of the bay before deciding to turn around. Rather than hug the coast, I paddled around Formentor Island before heading straight back towards the peninsula. With the wind at my back, I made good time. I had planned to spend an hour laying in the sun on Caló des Moro, but found myself with 1.5 hours of basking time. Caló des Moro appears to be completely natural, and pretty much only accessible by water. I had the beach to myself! 

Cliffs between Playa de Formentor and Port de Pollensa. Pollensa peninsula in the distance.

I had a fun photoshoot with my kayak... 

My own private beach - Calo des Moro, just past Pollensa Peninsula

Calo des Moro

Kayak photo shoot at Calo des Moro

Around 2pm, after sunning, I packed and launched my bright green boat and made my way back to the launch site. By now, the wind and waves had picked up from behind, and I found myself using the skeg for the final approach. 

I had expected that Oscar and Miguel would have their beach shack constructed by the time I returned, but Oscar informed me that they were still finishing the (nearly annual) beach nourishment, and the sand piles first needed to be bulldozed/spread out. Being a nerd, I asked him where they got the sand for nourishments every year, and he said either offshore, from dredging the little local harbor, or buying it elsewhere. 

I hope I can return some day with more time (maybe multiple days) and make it to the end of Cap Formentor or even reach the remote Cala Bóquer. Next time I'll make sure to have a bilge pump, though! :)

Scroll past the map to see some photos of the non-kayaking portion of my trip!

Date: Tuesday, March 21st 2017
Duration: 5 hrs
Distance: 20 km (12.4 miles)
Weather: ​Sunny and warm! Breezy in the afternoon.

Photos from the rest of my trip to Mallorca! (non-kayaking)